A look back at an extraordinary experience
The dream has come true and the expedition has come to a successful conclusion!
Years of dreaming, years of sacrifice, of doubts, of taking risks… We made the choice to invest all the money we had left, in the midst of a pandemic that devastated our work, our jobs and our incomes. We took an enormous financial risk, but it was worth it!
It was an incredible experience, full of twists and turns, emotions, fears, joy, wonderful encounters, satisfactions, disappointments… I had some unforgettable moments!
We had to make choices and strategic decisions. We quickly realised that I wouldn’t be able to climb alpine style, carrying a 20kg rucksack. My shoulder injury, which I thought had healed, reappeared under the weight of the bag. It was impossible for me to climb without porters. I also didn’t have Hugo’s level of fitness. In these expeditions, it’s essential to form teams of the same level. Hugo and the guys were going twice as fast as me. Either we had to adapt a strategy to my pace, or I had to abandon the idea of the summit. The best strategy was to give Hugo every chance.
The Thaki team at the summit of K2
Hugo, a mountaineering guide with Thaki Voyage, was able to demonstrate his professionalism, commitment and physical stamina. Thanks to Niels and Oswaldo for being Hugo’s excellent companions during the climbs. You were able to achieve some incredible feats together, not forgetting Oswaldo, your rescue of Naztia on Broad Peak.
By climbing K2, Hugo opened a page in Bolivian sporting history, and I think that’s only the beginning! Hugo became the 9th man to climb K2 and Broad Peak in the same expedition without oxygen or a porter, and Niels the 10th.
Here is the list of previous expeditions::
Josef Rakoncaj: Broad Peak on 22 June 1986; K2 on 5 July 1986.
Beda Fuster: Broad Peak on 21 June 1986; K2 on 5 July 1986.
Rolf Zemp: Broad Peak on 21 June 1986; K2 on 5 July 1986.
Soro Dorotei: Broad Peak on 20 June 1986; K2 on 5 July 1986.
Martino Moretti: Broad Peak on 20 June 1986; K2 on 5 July 1986.
Boyan Petrov: Broad Peak on 23 July 2014; K2 on 31 July 2014.
Sergi Mingote: Broad Peak on 16 July 2018; K2 on 23 July 2018.
Anja Blacha: Broad Peak on 4 July 2019; K2 on 25 July 2019.
I’m proud of him, but also proud to have organised this expedition. At the K2 base camp, the teams want me to come back as expedition manager!
I’m not giving up hope of reaching 8000 either, without oxygen but with logistical assistance, maybe the G2….. to follow!
As for Hugo, he’s going to try to follow his 14 x 8000 route. He’s now on his way and has shown what he’s capable of. All that remains is to find the financial support, which is not the easiest part… To be continued!
