Illampu Ascent

Departure in the morning from La Paz. Road to Titicaca Lake, then descent to Sorata, a village nested deep in a valley below the Illampu and Ancohuma massifs.

Ascent with a 4WD vehicle to Lacatiya village, where we meet our muleteers’ team. Easy climb until a steep scree, which becomes harder until a pass at 4850 m.a.s.l./15912 feet of altitude (3 hours walk). Then, it takes 30 minutes to descend to a place called “Aguas Calientes”, the base camp for Illampu (Alt. 4620 m.a.s.l./15157 feet)

Climb to a plateau and walk to a valley. Once in the valley, the view opens on entire Illampu massif. We will go down a little in the valley that we climb until the high camp just below the glacier. If you're lucky you can spot condors.

Very technical ascent (TD/IV). Departure in the night (around 1 am). Approach march on the moraine to a glacial valley between Illampu and Schulz peak. Progression on the glacier through easy to fairly steep slopes until the deepness of the valley. After a flat portion, we arrive, after 3 hours walk at the foot of the cliff (5660 m.a.s.l./18569 feet). Some expeditions set up their high camp on this flat area. Long climb (1h30 to 2 hours) on this very steep wall (65º) with 350 m of height difference, to reach the ridge ( 6000 m.a.s.l./19685 feet). We continue on the ridge with steep slopes (alternating from 45º/50º to 70º) until the summit (2h30 to 3 hours) 7 to 8 hours from high camp. Descent to high camp (5 hours). Return to Aguas Calientes by the normal route (2 hours). Night at the base camp.

Last climb to the pass ( 4850 m.a.s.l/15915 feet) and descent in the valley to the village of Lacatiya. Return by car to Sorata, then to La Paz.