Janqu Uyu & Pacha Pata Ascent

Transfer in 4WD vehicle (About 4 hours drive) from La Paz to Khotia Lake. We continue North-East to Janq’u Quta Lake ( 4715 ma.s.l./15470 feet) at the foot of Mullu pass. We set up the camp close to the lake. The base camp of Janq’u Uyu is a bit further up, around 4900 m.a.s.l./16076 feet close to a pass. But this place is very windy, and it is more convenient to camp down there in a sheltered place and go up with a vehicle in the night to the pass. Camp and rest.

Acclimatization trek. The vehicle drops us at the foot of Cerro Wila Lluxita. This massif still glacial, but not for long, splits the valley, the Mullu pass on one side which leads to the Fabulosa mine to the south-west, and another pass further north-west which leads to the tropical slopes of the Cordillera as well as Las Tres Marias and Negruni massifs. The vehicle drops us around 4960 m.a.s.l./16273 feet of altitude. We climb through the rock on a steep slope to reach the glacier. We follow the ridges oriented west - east on the glacier, and reach the summit of Cerro Wila Lluxita, at 5245m..a.s.l./17208 feet Nice view north-east on Janq’u Uyu, our goal for the next day, and on the impressive Janq’u Laya. Further South-East, we can sight Mullu Apacheta glacier.

Departure around 4 am in $WD vehicle, to reach the famous windy pass at 5000 m.a.s l./16404 feet in half an hour. We start walking North-West. The approach march is tricky in a rocky chaos until we reach the edge of the glacier after 1h30 walk. Very smooth climb, still North-West, on the glacial dome with nice rounded shapes. We reach the summit after 3h30 walk from the start. This ascent has no technical difficulty and the slopes are smooth (35º/40º). The summit of Janq’u Uyu is located on a magnificent cornice overlooking the ridges of this massif to the North-West. The view on Chachacomani, Cerro Jakocire and Imasiña dizzying cliffs is gorgeous, as well as on Huayna Potosi further South-East. The South-West cliff of Janq’u Laya is also impressive, seen from the summit. We can choose to descend by the same route and sleep at Janq’u Quta lake, or continue on the ridges North-West, and descend South-west in the valley and sleep at Leche Khota lake. We’ll need 2 hours to go through those sharp ridges sometimes exposed. We’ll also have to go through a technical and steep section on pure rock. Then, we descend quietly South-West on the glacier to the foot of Jisk’a Pata peak in one more hour. We’re left with walking on the hillside to the beautiful Leche Khota Lake, nested at the foot of Jach’a Pata peak. Idyllic and gorgeous camp, close to the turquoise water of the lake.

Resting day

The camp is nested just below a granitic rock barrier. A snowy pass separates the two main peaks. The one on the right, North-West oriented, is the highest. Its name is Pach’a Pata, which rises to 5650 m.a.s.l./18536 feet . Departure in the morning around 5 am. Walk up south-west to the rocky barrier. Progression in the rocks to the lake above. Then we continue in a rocky chaos until the edge of the glacier that we reach after one hour walk. Quite smooth climb to the pass at 5510 m.a.s.l./18077 feet , through 45º/50º slopes (! hour from the glacier edge). A last 65º/70º slope awaits us to climb the last 150 m of height difference; we’ll need one more hour to reach the summit. The view is breathtaking north-west to the extremity of the Royal Cordillera, until the Illampu and Ancohuma massif, as well as Chearoco and Chachacomani. Gorgeous. We can also admire the whole ridges of Janq’u Uyu where we were the day before. And the Wara Warani shows off its rocky face. Descent by the same route to the camp.

From Leche Khota lake, we start west through rocks. We reach a plateau overlooking the glacial valley and which will lead us to the edge of the glacier in less than 2 hours, around 5310m.a.s.l./16830 feet. From there, we walk up smoothly to a huge glacial plateau separating Janq’u Uyu and Chachacomani. The ridges of Janq’u Uyu start to appear behind us at sunrise. We arrive at a first small peak at 5455m.a.s.l./17897 feet. The view is breathtaking on 360º. Further north, the glacial massif will lead us to the thrilling ridges of Cerro Umasiña. We continue our route following the crest line. After a second small peak at 5505 m.a.s.l./18061 feet we’ll have to pass an exposed section on rock. Then we descend in a glacial valley (5410 m.a.s.l.17750 before ascending our last pass, located at 5600 m.a.s.l./18372 feet, just below Umasiña ridges. Here, you can choose either to descend quietly on the glacier to Chachacomani valley and the base camp, or the second option, more aerial, which consists in climbing to the ridges, and follow them and descend above the base camp of Chachacomani. Beware, this route is very exposed and engaged on rocky ridges.

From the camp, we start to the north-west towards the perpendicular valley. We gather altitude quickly. We arrive at a nice combe with a meandering stream ( 4700m.a.s.l./15419 feet). We continue to the end at about 4775m.a.s.l./15666 feet before going up north on a fairly steep slope. We start this last slope in a rocky chaos, and arrive close to the glacier. The place is magic for setting up the camp.

Ascent with no technical difficulty, but engaged (PD/III) Departure in the night (Around 1:00 am) From the high camp, we start walking on the glacier. We progress quietly north-east on a wide fissured plateau. We have to find the best way through the huge crevasses to reach at the foot of the Chachacoman ridges. We start walking east on those ridges to reach the main summit. There the slopes are steeper, but without exceeding 45º. The view from the summit ridge is absolutely stunning from the north to the south of the Cordillera. We descend without problem by the same route. Back to the base camp in the afternoon. 5 to 6 hours ascent from the high camp. Descent to high camp (2h00). Return to base camp (2h00). Night in base camp.

Return to the village of Cruz Pampa and transfer in vehicle to La Paz.